Ua Pou Revisited

We had a varied sail across fro Tuahatu to Ua Pou – no wind to start and then some spanking beam reach sailing in blustery conditions on the last third. (Ignore the date on the photo, its fixed on the camera now).

Once around the headland, the approach and anchoarge at Hakahau was as good as ever. We had fun watching the kids enjoying their kayak practice after school.

 

This bit of the mountainside reminded us of a Lion’s Head view of Table Mountain:

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We had another very pleasant walk over to the next bay.

Anyone spot Liz in the wave?

Liz bodysurfing (1)

We visited the Pukuee Bar for a well deserved cold one on the way back (and some internet access). Great views over the anchorage.

The Watermaker gave us a Low Pressure warning and stopped working. After much digging and consultation, we dismantled the Booster Pump Switch (having changed filters and done endless other checks) and found that when they assembled the switch, they had put a very poor spot solder on one of the terminals (instead of a male/female connection) and this had just fallen off. Once identified, easy to replace with a good connection and all was well again.

Next we wandered down the coast to Hakaheteu.

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The anchorage was a bit rolly but had spectacular views.

We had another great walk up to one of the Pinnacles. The Lady with the Goat was born in Hakaheteu, is working in Strasbourg and was visiting family on holiday. She gave us our walking directions and also helpful instructions on how to do a full day walk around all the Pinacles (saving that for our trip back down south later).

Bye Bye Ua Pou for now. We will return later. The poor place is going to be inundated by (according to some) about 3000 people in December for a Music Festival. It doesn’t bear thinking about in this pristine location. We are thankfully away for Caryn’s wedding and will return well afterwards. We are benefitting from enjoying all the music preparations by experiencing all the arts, crafts, music and dancing around the islands (see next post) in a more relaxed manner.

Meanwhile, great memories in our wake …….

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Cruising the Marquesas

Been a bit tardy on the blog updates of late but what with lack of internet access and complete adaptation to island time, it just didn’t seem a priority.

We have been slowly cruising around the islands and enjoying the wondeful Marquesan people and their amazing “Hiva” homeland.

Here’s a picture of the layout and location of the Marquesas for orientation ( Emily C. Donaldson (2017): Troubled lands: sovereignty and livelihoods in the Marquesas Islands, International Journal of Environmental Studies, DOI: 10.1080/00207233.2017.1364893)

Marquesas-Map

As you can see, we have just started scratching the potential of French Polynesia, let alone the rest of the Pacific Islands!

Here’s another whistlestop through some of the places we have been chilling in.

ANAHO Bay on Nuku Hiva

There will be more on this special place later as we are going back again but it is such a special anchorage (see pic, tucked around behind a headland with 360 degree protection) and such a pleasurable environment (sandy beaches, walking, forest etc etc).

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and of course the snorkelling …..

 

Anse Avaiva Iti

Again special for us as it was our first landfall after the crossing from Panama, so we could not resist another stay.

 

Fatu Hiva

We had a spanking beam reach sail across from Tuahatu to Fatu Hiva (south western most of the islands).

 

There is only really one viable anchorage called Baie Des Vierges (Bay of Virgins) off the village of Hanavave. It used to be called Baie Des Virges (Bay of Penises) before the Missionaries interfered and had it changed. If you really, really squint and stare hard at the picture, you can just sort of imagine a virgin in the rocks.

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Hanavave and its anchorage are really picturesque. If you want to stay incommunicado, anchor on the left of the bay (more sheltered) where the jutting rocks interfere with the Vinispot signal.

 

The other settlement on the island is Omoa. It is an hour and a half kayak down the coast which is a splendid trip, full of hidden inlets, caves and mini-waterfalls. Sorry, no pics as Liz’s waterproof camera proved not eventually …

The other way to get there (yourself) is to hike the only island road. This takes just over four hours at a goodly pace. We thought about hiking back again to save the expense (for a nanosecond) and then settled in for a bayside lunch, cold Hinano beers and a bumpy water taxi (small aluminium boat) ride back.

 

The bay was so rough when we left that they could not use the slipway to launch the boat but dropped it in with a forklift truck instead!!

 

There is also a pleasant forest walk to the Cascades at the head of the valley above Hanavave.

 

The people on Fatu Hiva were just so nice and helpful. We got invited to the Sunday service in the Roman Catholic church. This turned out to be a uniquely Marquesan “sung mass”. There was a great turnout. The service itself was highly participative as regards members of the community leading various parts and readings. There was a small choir together with soprano and tenor ukuleles, a rhythm guitar and a large and emphatic lady on a traditional drum. The voices were great, not only in the choir but in the audience as well, with lots of harmonising. Even the children participated instead of the normal fidgeting or sleeping.

We had several pleasant strolls around the village and visited with a local artisan who carves in shell, stone and wood. Very good carving work (we have seen enough now to have some degree of appreciation of quality). We bought some items but the smaller stuff as it is all so very expensive here (prices are 3X Panama as a rule of thumb).

The lead artisan is supported by his son, who runs the business now. I have got wood carving tools coming to me from Australia. When they get here, we will return to Fatu Hiva as they have agreed to teach me the Marquesan methods of carving.

Hanamoenoe

This is regarded as one of the best anchorages in the Marquesas (good snorkelling, lots of Manta Rays, beautiful beach, no development). We bypassed earlier in our wanderings as there were still quite a few boats in. This time we have had it almost entirely to ourselves with an occasional second boat dropping in.

 

Hiva Oa

Although not our favourite anchorage, we had a very pleasant stay when we went back to visit John and Bev on Dandelion (who have finally resolved their engine problems).

The anchorage was very flat and quiet (by comparison with our previous stay). We had some great walks and met up again with Seth and Ellen on Celeste and John and Becca on Halcyon.

Good kayaking out to the island and swimming with the Manta Rays.

 

Good provisioning done, we were off again …

 

Ua Pou

Very pleasant sail across and spectacular views on approach.

 

Nice time in town with friendly locals and a dance and haka celebration. Pleasant walking around.

Vaitahu

One of my favourite spots. We are the only yacht in the bay again.

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The views are great. On our last visit we got a great rainbow shot of Dandelion. There is good snokelling on both sides of the bay, great walks for hours to north and south and a great kayak down to Baie Hanatefau for more good snorkelling.

The church is a work of art, dominated by a beautiful stained glass window that filters in the morning light most beautifully.

There is a micro-archaeology-dig site (covered in) in the south of the bay at what seems to have been a seaside settlement that provided a dune dig. The researchers drew conclusions about the seafaring capabilities of the early Marquesans through the discovery of various artifacts and their distribution elsewhere in Polynesia; in particular, the source (quarry on another island) and distribution (very distant islands) of a precisely identified stone used to make adzes.

Some of the finds from the dig have been preserved and displayed in the local museum.

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Whilst not detracting at all from the value of the local museums (the Musee Boutique on Nuku Hiva is another worth visiting), it is sad that so much of the Marquesan artifact heritage has been taken away from the Hiva homeland and now resides in foreign, “first world” museums and collections. This systematic deprivation is well documented in “Les Marquisiens: Les Marquisiens et leur art. Ornamentation primitive des mers du sud III. Collections”, by Karl von den Steinen, first published in 1928. A large book (13″X19″), this thoroughly documents a wide range of Marquesan art and artifacts with a commendable but depressing thoroughness in the identification of where these objects now reside. Now there’s a project ……..

Vaitahu was also the adoptive home of Emily Donaldson, from where she was based in conduction ethographic research which you can access here: http://www.emilydonaldson.org/projects.html

This article provides a good insight into her work: http://www.emilydonaldson.org/Donaldson%202017,%20Troubled%20Lands,%20Sovereignty%20and%20Livelihoods%20in%20the%20Marquesas%20Islands.pdf

She also published a Marquesan-French-English Dictionary and Phrase Book, a physical copy of which we have been unable to find – we even boarded the Aranui in foul weather in Vaitahu Bay to source a copy but they did not have any. You can request a digital copy from Emily via her website.

 

 

Nuku Hiva

We arrived at Nuku Hiva after a pleasant overnight sail from Tuahatu.

The main settlement at Taiohae is a rolly but pleasant anchorage and there is lots to do in the way of walking, snorkelling (some), good provisioning and good medical/dental care.

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There was a great veggie market on Saturday mornings at 05h00.

We treated ourselves to a lunch at the upmarket Pearl Lodge with its great views out over the bay.

Freinds Alex and Carla shared a car with us for a tour around the island. The interior is surprisingly Alpine until you get to the other side of the island where it seems that some French bureaucrat has drawn a line and decreed “No greenery here, just desert!”.

The northern bays are very picturesque and of course a pleasant lunch was called for.

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We explored one of the archaeological sites until the miggies got the better of us. The sites are mainly former settlements that have become overgrown in the forests – the arrival of the Europeans having devasted the population (by about 90%) through disease, religion, drink and random slaughter. Its amazing that the locals are today amongst the friendliest people that we have encountered anywhere.

With Carla along, some good foraging was obligatory.

There is a modern sculpture up on the hill overlooking Taiohae Bay which has great views and the opportunit to post a written wish into the belly of the “Earth Mother”/Warrior composite figure.

The Cathedral is worth a visit. Like many of the churches, it combines traditional Tiki and similar imges alongside Christian ones and there is a Tiki site alongside. We were anchored right outside the entrance.

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We anchored in the protected Daniel’s Bay anchorage which has spectacular rocky mountain surroundings. The walk up to the waterfall in a canyon was great but they had forgotten to turn the tap on so we did notb see the waterfall.

 

Our favourite anchorage so far, in the entire Marquesas, is Anaho Bay. We have spent some time there chilling, snorkelling and enjoying the walks.

Hiva Oa

The anchorge at Atuona on Hiva Oa is picturesque but uncomfortable. You can see in the background of the title image the small Maintenance Marquises Boatyard where we hauled out and will leave Windward in December when we attend Caryn’s wedding.

Here is the picturesque part:

And here is the uncomfortable bit:

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Because of the tight space, the shifting winds and the surging swell, you had to anchor close to other vessels and with a stern anchor out. Boats were dragging at all times of day and night. We were woken one morning by the frantic shouts of a single handing and venerable Dutch sailor who was trying to re-anchor and in the process had entangles his rudder on our stern anchor line. I had to dive down in the murky water, avoiding his turning prop and free the line for him.

Checkin with the French Polynesian authorities was painless and pleasant – one form, a smiling welcome and you got to post the form to Tahiti by yourself over the road at the Post Office.

We had several pleasant walks.

Another stroll took us up the hill behind town to the cemetry to see the graves of Gaugain and Brel; the rest of the cemetery was more interesting (short lifespans these folks) and had great views.

We re-provisioned heartily to replenish the stores depleted by over a month at sea but had our socks knocked off by the prices – much dearer than Europe.

Hiva Oa provided our introduction to the French Polynesian canoeing. It is THE sport here and the craft are very elegant. As we write, they are preparing for a major inter-island race.

The haul out at the yard was smooth and we managed to haul, clean the bottom, refresh the ant-fouling and install stainless steel reinforcing and repair the broken welds on the cockpit structure plus splash back in in 4 days.

Andreas and Helena of Wapiti kindly assisted us with the haulout process. UK Health and Safety would have freaked to see us required to stay on board throughout the haulout and move to the working stand. The yard is toi be recommended for price, service, resourcefulness and friendliness.

A last walk took us back to town and a visit to the local culture and crafts centre where lots of goods were on dispolay (no photos allowed, beautiful and far too expensive for us)  and some external displays of Tikis and carvings.

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Thereafter it was spalsh into the water and back to Tuahatu (where we bumped into the Diesel family on Argo) for a couple of days chill before the overnight sail to Nuku Hiva.

 

Pacific Crossing

After leaving Vista Mar, we staged ourselves back at Cantadora in the Las Perlas Islands to await our weather window. We were advised by Bob McDavitt ( http://www.metbob.com ) who planned our departure date and routing, which was to the north of the Galapagos islands. We had decided to pass on the Galapagos because of the expense,  bureaucratic nonsense, restrictions and tourist volumes (check out the cruise ships crowding out the AIS around the islands below).

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Bob was excellent and kept contact with us via satellite comms the whole way, providing advice, weather warnings and routing changes to avoid or take advantage of weather.

In general, we had a good crossing. We did it in 33 days of 3 hours on and 3 hours off  watches each. We had wind most of the way and only motored exclusively for one 8 hour period north west of the Galapagos when becalmed. Otherwise it was sailing with the occasional engine boost when our speed dropped too low. We got used to “Goose Wing” sailing downwind.

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Our Hydrovane wind steering (dubbed Henry, for Henry the Navigator) proved an awesome asset and steered us reliably for many hours at a time without drawing energy from the batteries.

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Sunrise and sunset were favourite times to be on watch.

 

We were escorted frequently by curious and energetic dolphin.

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When conditions allowed, a salt water washdown shower was very pleasant.

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We tried to aim to cross the equator on Liz’s birthday on the 3rd but missed it slightly, crossing at 23h00 on the 4th April. We did of course celebrate with champagne on Liz’s birthday and offer a libation to Neptune at the equator.

The yoghurt maker that Andrew brought with him to us in Cantadora Island proved a focus of luxury as we had museli, yoghurt and fruit every morning of the passage.

Our attempts to feed ourselves from fishing were less successful with only one decent catch. The fish contemptuously shredded our various lures or just ripped them off (we probably did not want to catch anything of the size of the latter).

 

We did not escape unscathed. Liz had a fall down the companionway in rough seas and hurt herself badly. She was bravely back on duty a couple of watches later, shaken but not stirred.

The bolt securing the autohelm linear drive toi the rudder tiller arm sheared off. Fortunately, we had obtained spares and having the Hydrovame wind steering meant we could repair the autohelm at sea in fairly short order.

We got caught by a dry squall during one of Liz’s night watches (could not pick it up on the radar). The auto steering could not cope and Liz was struggling. We got things back under control by fortunately achieving a heaved to position and getting our aggressive third reef in place (effectively a storm sail). After that, even though we had in excess of 40 knots of wind and rough conditions, Windward perormed beautifully.

Next day, when things calmed down, we made jury rig repairs to two broken sliders and a batt car.

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The last 5-6 days were washing machine conditions and four welds parted on the stainless steel framework of the cockpit that carries the life raft and the dingy motor. We lashed it together with rope and hoped for the best (we subsequently have welded in reinforcing bars).

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It was a great moment on the last morning as the mountains of Hiva Oa crept up over the horison and we sailed down the passage between it and Tahuata Island to join our friends Alex and Carla on Ari B who had passed us towards the end of the trip (one of only two vessel sightings that we had in 4000 nautical miles!). When passing, they saw us on AIS and made VHF radio contact and we briefly had binocular visuals.

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Arrival at the small but beautiful anchorage after the passage was a very happy affair (after which we crashed for 12 hours solid).

 

We don’t mind admitting that we were in great trepidation about the Pacific Crossing. We are not that experienced sailors and are not spring chickens anymore. Anyone who tells you that they are not scared of an ocean passage, to a greater or lesser degree ,is (in my opinion) a liar or delusional.

Many thanks to all the sailing friends who kept in contact on  SSB radio and via satellite comms and kept an eye on us. Thanks to Bob McDavitt for his excellent support. Thanks to Andrew for tracking our progress and status like a hawk and sending us frequent motivational chirps.

At the end of the day, it was an awesome experience. It is truly humbling to be out there in this vast ocean space that can only be experienced by being there on your own. It is nothing like the perception and sense of open space on land. The ocean is truly mighty and truly magnificent. We were really privilaged to have had this experience.

Vista Mar

Vista Mar is an affordable marina some 40 miles west of Panama City, making it an ideal base to prepare the boat for a Pacific Crossing. There was even a well qualified and resourceful South African diesel mechanic and general marine engineer, Ollie, who is highly recommended by us all.

The haulout was a dodgy work in progress but will no doubt improve.

We decided to remove the varnish from Windward’s woodwork and replace with Teak Oil, which has worked out well. Help from John gratefully received. Graham also helped with rigging review and an improvement to the Preventer system.

There was time for pleasant socialising but as you can see, marina life drives some people up the wall!

As we would be slower than the catamarans and more experienced sailors, we left earlier than most of the others and were treated to a very posh send off party by the others.

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Another Andrew Visit!

We had the great pleasure of another visit from Andrew. He flew in to Cantadora Island via Panama City, collected his San Blas Molas Headband and proceeded to get into chill and ziz mode as only Andrew can!

 

There was good walking around Cantadora Island.

Kayaking around the island gives you an idea of how the other half live.

Good dawns and sunsets were shared with a visit to the small beach pub.

Then off to the more remote islands for some further chilling, kayaking and slowing down.

Andrew was to prove an absolute brick in tracking us and staying in communication on the Pacific Crossing.